May 18, 2015

 On the biggest Orkney Island, called Mainland, sheep gnaw on grass; winding, hilly, two-way roads are only one lane (with plenty of "Passing Places" if you see a car coming towards you); trees are non-existent; one-story houses are made out of sturdy stone, stucco, or brick; and neolithic standing stones and other sites can be found in farmers' fields, where you have to step around sheep poop.

And we are at the Standing Stones Hotel near Stenness. On the drive up the east coast of Scotland yesterday, we spotted tufts of golden gorse dotting the hillsides, more sheep, picturesque villages, long and low stone walls around fields that have likely been there for centuries..

I have to revise my perspective of Scottish weather. We've had respectable periods of sunshine for the last few days, even though rain was predicted. Last night near John O'Groat, walking to The Stacks (rocky crags that birds like), we were treated to a double rainbow.

After we got off the car ferry this morning, we saw the Tomb of the Eagles. We had to lie on our backs on a flat cart with wheels and pull ourselves inside. If you look at the photo at right,

you can see a human skull. -- Like a lot of the archaeological finds in the area, it's estimated at 5,000 years old.

A few of the standing stones (the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar) had initials scratched into them. One was "W.D. 1880." These stones are believed to be older than Stone Henge; they're also significantly smaller. The explanation for the stones is that they had ceremonial purposes. (I suspect that's the default explanation archaeologists fall back on when they have no clue.) The stones are drawing tourists, which has to boost Orkney's economy.

There are plenty of baby lambs in the area--very cute, especially when they're running. I'd like to take one home as a pet., but Customs would probably object. So would Tom.